Oysters By the Bay

For a City by the Bay (and the Pacific Ocean), you might think San Francisco would have quite a selection of oyster bars, but I only know of about half a dozen, including the venerable Swan Oyster Depot (one of the oldest restauarnts in the city) and one at the stunning Waterbar on the Embarcadero.

But now there's a new one on Fisherman's Wharf. At the flagship location of the Boudin sourdough bakery, there is a wide takeout selection of breads and other baked goods and a casual cafe downstairs. But upstairs, there is an impressive restaurant, Bistro Boudin, site of the new oyster bar. At the pretty, marble-topped bar, several raw (Drake's Bay, Hama Hama, Marin Miyagi, and Kumamoto) and two baked oysters (Rockefeller and barbecued), plus half a dozen specially-selected wines to pair with the oysters, are offered. A King Estate (Oregon) Pinot Gris was a lovely match for the Drake's Bay oysters from Point Reyes. A slight sweetness emerged when the wine blended with the briney shellfish.

The adjacent restaurant, with its classy decor and views of the bay, stands out among the mostly tired fish palaces of Fisherman's Wharf.  If you are enticed to order further, consider some of Chef Misael Reyes' innovative specialities like Sourdough Tortilla Tacos with grilled Rock Cod, spicy grilled shrimp or Dungeness Crab and a Dungeness Crab and shrimp pizza.

Culinaria in San Antonio

San Antonio's annual Culinaria festival: The first-ever food truck event on May 17, 2012 offered lots of food trucks gathered in one place. The trucks, such as Rickshaw, Duk Truk and Say-She-Ate, dished up Duck Fat Fries, !ndian pocket pies, Thai spiced hot wings, Akaushi beef sliders, BBQ (of course), crepes, gourmet burgers, and beer and wine!  Long lines, because it was so popular, but good food and good fun.

Rosé Roundup

A rose is a rose is a rose, as Gertrude Stein wrote, but a rosé can be even better. This spring and summer, when  you want the refreshing quality of a white wine but with more weight and more flavor, choose a dry, French-style rosé. They don"t have to come from France-- wineries all over the world are making wines in this style. The French region they are most identified with, Provence, is enjoying record sales right now. So if you want to be trendy, embrace chilled dry rosés this spring and summer. If you just want good wine, enjoy this style of rosé anytime, all year round, like I do. Below are several I recommend after recent tastings. Following them are some unorthodox, but interesting, pink products I came across while looking for rosés, a rosé Port and a rhubarb liqueur.

2011 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, Mulderbosch, South Africa, ($12) was a delightful find as it is the first rosé I have ever tasted from South Africa. Yummy red fruit, crisp with a firm acidity and a sturdy weightiness in the mouth are the hallmarks of this wine. 12.5% alcohol.

2011 Halter Ranch Rosé: Paso Robles, California. ($16). This southern Rhone Valley-style rose is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and a Picpoul Blanc (a white grape). It is similar to wines from Tavel in Provence. It is a deep pink wine with flavors and aromas of red cherry and raspberry. Superbly dry with a wonderful silky mouthfeel. Alcohol is high at 14.1%.

2011 Prieure de Montezargues Rosé, Tavel, Provence, France, ($25.99).  From the land most associated with this style of wine, this is a blend of Grenache (both red and white), Cinsault, and several other Rhone varieties, it has a moderate alcohol of 13.5% and a palate-cleansing acidity. Perfect with light summer foods.

2011 Chateau de Jau, Jaja de Jau Rosé, France, ($9.99).  Made from 100% Syrah, this is a robust rosé. A little spice, a lot of weight in the mouth, and a deeper color than most rosés, this wine will convince rosé-shy, red wine imbibers that a dry rosé is worth drinking.

2011 North Coast Dry Rosato, V. Sattui, Napa Valley, ($21.75). Almost-red in color, this is a blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignane and is more hearty than light.  Red fruit aromas and flavors of raspberry and strawberry plus a classic acidity makes this wine a nice warm weather sipper. A moderate 13.5% alcohol.

JCB Cremant De Bourgogne Rosé, No 69, Boisset Family Estates, France ($20). Just watching the abundant tiny bubbles in this pretty sparkler rising in your flute is enjoyable, but when you taste the crisp, fruity, yeasty wine made from 100% Pinot Noir, the enjoyment heightens. Lovely color. A celebratory wine for a party or just a leisurely weekend brunch. Great quality for the price.


Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut, France ($99). For special occasions or when you want to make a splash, this pricey Champagne is impressive because of its razor-sharp focus, crisp acidity and aromas and flavors of cherry, strawberries, red currants. It is a blend of grapes from ten different crus considered among the finest in Champagne, and cellared for at least four years, both of which account for the high price.

Narello Mascalese Brut Rosé, Valdo, Italy, ($14.99). This dry rosé prosecco is a blend of two Italian grapes and has a low alcohol of only 12%. Light, refreshing with a zippy acidity, it would do well as a summer sipper alone or with seafood, paella or salads.  Served it at a ”Ladies Night” gathering and everyone was enthusiastic!

Lucien Albrecht Brut Rose ($20). One of my favorite wines, this is a cremant (French sparkling wine) from Alsace in northern France (not the Champagne region). It tastes like a high-end, celebration wine, but is moderate in cost and alcohol. The beautiful rosey tint looks good on any table, summer or winter.

Rhuby, a rhubarb liqueur, 40 proof, ($35). In U.S. stores by June, 2012. Sweet and tart, smooth and silky, this was delicious straight over ice. Made by adding organic Swedish wheat vodka, natural spring water, sugar and bourbon vanilla beans to juiced Swedish rhubarb stalks, it is free of chemicals, preservatives and additives. The makers of Rhuby recommend it in Margaritas, Daiquris, or Mojitos, or mixed with any sparkling wine. For a lighter drink, mix this pale pink liqueur with soda water or lemonade.

Croft PINK, rosé Port, 40 proof ($19.99). From one of the oldest Port houses in Portugal, this rosé Port is made from the same six grapes used in its traditional Port. The drink has aromas of ripe, red fruits, and tastes of berries and citrus. Drink it chilled, on the rocks, mixed (with jasmine iced tea, for example), or add to sangria.

Carmel-by-the-Sea Wine Walk

Last month, I stayed at a great family-run inn, Hofsas House, in Carmel-by-the-Sea where I went to experience the new Carmel Wine Walk. Eight tasting rooms within six blocks of each other in the central shopping area (it's hard to call it "downtown" because it's more like a village center) are sprinkled among the curio shops, art galleries and European bistros and bakeries that make Carmel so charming. Among the wineries from the Monterey appellation with tasting rooms are Scheid Vineyards, Figge Cellars and Caraccioli Cellars. Each tasting room is different; for instance, Figge Cellars shares space with an art gallery, Vino Napoli is a combination tasting room/wine bar/Italian cafe, and Caraccioli looks like a swanky bar and broadcasts football games on its flat-screen TV.

Hot off the presses are passports (available from the Carmel Chamber of Commerce for $30) that give tasters a $10 tasting at each of the eight stops on the walk.

The Hofsas House was a lovely place to stay that was convenient to the center of Carmel. Owner Carrie Theis, who could not be a more gracious host, is brimming with tips, help and ideas for how to enjoy a stay in Carmel. She has even arranged for guests to pick their continental breakfast trays up in the small front lobby so she and her staff can interact with them Many of the rooms have ocean views, fireplaces and are dog-friendly. And the Hofsas House has some great packages this year such as the "S'mores Package" that includes all the ingredients for S'mores, a fire bundle, beach blanket and flashlight to take down to the beach and make your own bonfire. Throw in that special bottle of wine you picked up while tasting on the Carmel Wine Walk and you have a recipe for a perfect evening.

Ways of Wine

"The Ways of Wine" is a new film by Argentine filmmaker Nicholas Carerras about Miami-based sommelier Charlie Arturaola, who travels to the Mendoza wine country in Argentina to participate in a typical international wine event, the kind of tasting event that many wine professionals take part in every year. Except nothing about this journey is typical. Charlie, the tasting master, loses his way. After realizing that he's "lost his palate," and cannot taste anything, he seeks help from a variety of well-known wine professionals such as French consulting winemaker Michel Rolland and winemaker Susana Balbo (playing themselves), but nothing works.
 Charlie finally undertakes a new kind of journey to connect with his family in Uruguay that results in an extended, poignant last scene that restores not only Charlie but also a belief in family, wine and the joys of life.
 Blending fact and fiction, the film uses innovative camera work and the lovely backdrop of the Mendoza wine country. One of the most arresting things about it is the way director Carreras coaxes natural performances from the cast --- none of them professional actors.
 "The Ways of Wine" is one of the best of the recent crop of "wine movies" from the last few years. I saw it at the inaugural Napa Valley Film Festival last weekend. It will be distributed in the U.S. by Shoreline Entertainment, but so far there are no dates for theatrical showings. Look out for it.

Holiday Gifts

I know it's early, but it's never really too early to think about gifts for those you care about. And especially with the rush of the end-of-the-year holidays, it's best to start early so you can enjoy yourself later.
That's why I was scrutinizing the books and gift boxes that came to my attention in the last few months for holiday gift-giving potential. Following are my favorites:

For those who love to choose the wine but leave the food to others: Harry and David “Founder’s Favorite Gift Box” $79.95.  Attractively packaged in one gift box, this culinary treasure trove was a treat to open and savor. The Founder's Favorite (there are many different gift boxes to choose from) showcases fresh pears, apples, cheese, black pepper-encrusted dry salami, crackers, pepper and onion relish, and snacks and desserts like Raspberry Galettes, Chocolate Moose Munch, truffles and Bing Cherry Chocolates. It’s an easy, elegant picnic or portable lunch for 2-4 in a box. All you have to do is add a bottle of wine!

 For anyone who likes to cook and craft: Gourmet Gifts by Dinah Corley; Harvard Common Press, $19.95 (paperback). This book of edible gifts contains many recipes, from nuts and cookies to more unusual items like handmade herbal tea sachets and creme fraiche fudge. What adds to the fun is that Corley makes the presentation of the gift as important as the gift itself. She suggests such novel presentations as a chocolate chiffon cake in a hat box, and a poster-sized peach fruit leather in a shipping tube. Includes recipes for Orange Essence Wine (a staple in Southern France) and Cool Cucumber Vodka.

For Francophiles: The Bonne Femme Cookbook by Wini Moranville; Harvard Common Press,  $24.95 (hardback).  This book takes you from amuse-bouches to desserts using the ideas, techniques and traditions of the French home cook (bonne femme roughly means housewife). It focuses on casual, everyday cooking rather than 12-step recipes for culinary masterpieces. A sample of the recipes: Cucumbers with Mint, Chickpea Soup, Blanquette of Pork, French Lasagne and Tres French Green Beans. Along the way, the author tells amusing and informative stories of her personal encounters with French food, culture and people. Great food to go with your French wine.

For Italian food junkies: Piatto Unico: When One Course Makes A Real Italian Meal by Toni Lydecker; Lake Isle Press, $19.95 (paperback).  Another look at home-style cooking, this time from Italy. This book focuses on the one-course Italian meal, traditionally peasant food or that associated with religious festivals and funerals. Peasant food never sounded so good: Rice, Beans and Sausages in Red Wine Sauce, Brothy Bread Soup with Poached Eggs, and Mountain Salad with Bacon, Fontina and Sweet-Sour Onions.  Especially helpful are the author's shopping and cooking tips in such asides as "Italian Market Strategies," and "At the Butcher, Fishmonger and Deli Counter."
 

Interesting Box Wine from Octavin

Just when I was thinking of whipping up a great sangria for a party (according to my friend Marimar Torres's classic Spanish recipe), I was introduced to Octavin's Osborne Seven, a blend of seven red Spanish varietals.
At $21.99 for a 3-liter box that keeps the wine fresh for as long as six weeks, it's quite a deal.
Now before you start questioning the idea of wine in a box, consider this: boxed wine, or bag-in-box, as the French call it, is the fastest-growing segment of the French wine market. If France, that stronghold of wine tradition, can accept wine in a box, I think we can too. For more on this issue, see my story in Wine Enthusiast magazine's November issue.
Osborne Seven has classic Spanish red varietals: Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Graciano, along with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, in a yummy blend that is moderate in alcohol (13.6%) and high on soft tannins and luscious fruit. Mixed with a little gin, Cognac and orange liqueur, plus lots of fresh fruit, it made a fantastic sangria.
Octavin has a line of eight-sided, self-serve packages that contain premium wine, including the one I tried after my sangria success, Herding Cats, a white blend from South Africa. Crisply acidic, with moderate alcohol (13.5%), the blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc was a pleasant aperitif and accompaniment to grilled fish and chicken at a barbecue. $24 for a 3-liter box. Available nationally in the U.S.